Robo Man Ridin' Blues: Friday, October 23rd!

Remember, we all stumble, every one of us. That's why it's a comfort to go hand in hand. -Emily Kimbrough, author and broadcaster (23 Oct 1899-1989) 

Sara Tilley reads from Duke

Up at 6:45 am as I was slated to ride with Robo Man at 9:30 am and I had much email to attend beforehand. "Attacked" my backlog until 8:40 am when I started to ready myself for coming ride. Had arranged to meet Pythagoras, or perhaps, Euclid, on Point Grey Road. Since I left shortly before 9:00 am I had plenty of time to dipsy-doodle around Kits Point before we met at the rendezvous spot. Was great to see Raymondo again and we spent the time, from Jericho to UBC, along Spanish Banks, catching up. He provided me with a pretty detailed account of his time, 24 days, in England, this past August and September, when he visited both friends, (Chris and Jim Brownlee, in particular, among many others, with whom we'd stayed, in Wetherby, in 2013),  and family, (daughter Jenny, in London), so it was delightful to hear many of his accounts of cycling, (Boris Bikes in London), and walks along the coast near Newcastle/Hartlepool, the latter his hometown.

Once we'd climbed the UBC Foreshore Hill, we skirted campus, leaving Marine at Stadium to take 16th to Imperial and then back to Marine, climbing Wesbrook to 16th. I accompanied Robo Man to Blanca and there we waved goodbye, he to continue home, I to log more distance. I ended up criss-crossing campus, with forays into Little Australia and a loop of University Blvd before taking 16th back to Marine and then it was homeward bound. Another gorgeous day although when I started out I noted a tinge of frost on some of the grass near the  Museum of Vancouver and early on in the ride it was coolish in the shade. Nevertheless, with the sun shining it was glorious as glorious could be as the morning progressed. Probably my last ride before Monday so pleased that I had been able to connect with Raymondo. Stats for ride:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/936009013#.VirFaPAGTjE.email

Home by 12:30 pm, intime for a quick shower, change and a bite to eat befoer making for the Improv Centre to take in Frontier: "The birth of the Canadian West is the stuff of legends—gold panners, railroad builders, fortunes won and lost. In Two Gun & Sun, June Hutton blends fiction with fact based on Morris Cohen, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen and a lone woman determined to resurrect a newspaper in a filthy frontier mining town in 1922. Writer and theatre artist Sara Tilley moves the clock backward to 1906 with Duke, a fictionalized memoir channeling the voice of her great-grandfather, sent to Alaska at the end of the Klondike Gold Rush. Paul Yee’s A Superior Man, his first work of fiction for adults, explores the construction of the C.P.R. and the bawdy world of Chinese “bachelors” who lived in Vancouver’s Chinatown."

The session was moderated by Jen Sookfong Lee and she did an admirable job of asking informed, though provoking questions. I was particularly taken with Sara's reading as she so captured Duke's voice that we were with him in the dentist's chair as he was having two rotten teeth excised. For his part, Paul Yee did not read from his book but told the chapter he chose as a storyteller, from memory. Quite a feat and ever so dramatic, as you might imagine. Furthermore, all of the authors provided numerous fascinating examples, from their voluminous research, of the life and dirty, difficult times that their characters lived in. 

Had a meeting at the Revue Theatre to go over operational details for the Sunday Brunch and Tea there. I'm a Crew Captain, Setting-up and Strike, so the other Crew Captains were there so that we could finalize everyone's responsibilities. Home to ready myself for our next bar shift. Had everything set up by 5:30 pm, helped my Melanie Clark, our latest "Shadow". Had fun getting to know her before we all attended Mind Games: "Visual art can suggest a mental state; music can swirl with emotion. But only literature can lay bare the inner workings of the mind. In Nino Ricci’s novel Sleep, a man’s brain has begun to misfire; his sense of reality is slipping out of reach. In Martin John, Anakana Schofield illuminates the dark recesses in the mind of a sexual predator preoccupied with words that start with ‘P.’ John Vaillant’s novel The Jaguar’s Children gets inside the head of an undocumented Mexican immigrant experiencing extreme pressure and stress."

Another sizzling session. I was somewhat familiar with Ricci's work as I've heard him at previous festivals. I "know" John as he lives in Vancouver and I've chatted with him at quite a few Festival sponsored events. However, I'd never heard of Anakana and was dazzled, both by her reading and by her sparkling mind and wit. Need to read her latest, for sure. 
 
After the event ended, we set up the bar again, ready to serve those fortunate enough to have tickets for Writing Country: Four authors whose fiction is firmly fixed in place and culture talk about depicting the soul of a country while also exploring universal concerns. Though none of their stories could take place in any other country, these portraits of Haiti, Vietnam, India and Jamaica are no travelogues. Rooted in the personal and encompassing the political, they take you into the backstreets, the slums, the rural Indian countryside, [Shilpi Somaya Gowda's first novel, The Secret Daughter, was an international bestseller. In 1991, she spent a summer as a volunteer at an Indian orphanage, which seeded the idea for the book. Her new novel, The Golden Son, moves between India and the United States and tells the story of two childhood friends whose lives, despite distance, are inextricably combined.], and the storm of shellfire. [Viet Thanh Nguyen’s stories have appeared in Best New American Voices, TriQuarterly, Narrative and the Chicago Tribune, and he is the author of the academic book Race and Resistance. His acclaimed debut novel, The Sympathizer, features one of the most remarkable narrators of recent fiction: a conflicted subversive and idealist working as a double agent in the aftermath of the Vietnam War.] Roxane Gay describes Haiti as “a country of startling contrasts—so much beauty, so much brutality.” Marlon James says, “I wanted a picture of Jamaica that isn’t in books.” Travel the world tonight in the company of authors who skillfully lead the way.

Marlon had been scheduled to appear at the festival before he won this year's Man Booker so a number of extra appearances were planned around the recent
event. This being the case, we were delighted to be able to see and listen to him, in person. First time, for me, at least, that I've come this close to hearing the winner of this prestigious literary prize, up front and in person! Not that the other authors on the panel were eclipsed as I was more than delighted to learn about them. Such a wealth of talent, such a myriad number of voices from the four corners of the world. After the memorable session, we closed up the bar, thanked Melanie for all her help and toddled off home. I made a salad and we dined on that and overlefts, reading and chatting until close to midnight. We felt we could afford to stay up as we could sleep in the next morning, our first session not on until 10:30 pm.

Hello Susan! We met, briefly, at the Opening Reception for the VWF, and I am writing to ask that four tickets, (two for my wife, Corinne Durston, and two for me, Patrick Dunn), be held at Will Call under the name of Sylvia Banks, for the Ian Rankin event, Monday, Nov. 16th at St. Andrews Wesley Church, Burrard and Nelson.

As we are leaving for India, next Tuesday, October 27th, I would appreciate confirmation, beforehand, that I am correct about the number of tickets to which we are entitled and that said tickets will be held for Sylvia. As well, I would appreciate knowing the time the event will start. I apologize if I have not submitted this request to the correct address but the website does not appear to offer another alternative, at least as far as I am able to determine. Thanks, in advance, for your attention to this matter. Cheers, Patrick! Pics: VWF Opening Reception, Lonnie and his moll; Sinister Sisters in Crime and Call Saul, their lawyer!

Shall phone again. Thanks for newsy email and very sorry to hear about Andrew. Your tribute was really good and well thought out and well written. Mind you for an English graduate so it should be! I phoned and had forgotten that you were leaving for India via Vancouver so imminently. Have a really lovely time and be in touch. All well but very tired with so much work and some has been back dated.It cannot be helped. Pat`s Tales of Opera continue to go well and last audience were raving and since then more invitations have come in. Also loved your photos. Love Sir James and Lady Patricia

Hello Lady Patrizzia and Sir James! Trust you are both well. I had heard from Louise that she quite enjoyed her chat with you! Am so sorry that we kept missing your calls. Did like your two voice mails, however. Glad you liked the snapolas. Thanks, as well, for your good wishes regarding our trip. Fondestos, from Cora Lee to you both. Cheers, Patrizzio! 

Hey so as you may know I am engaged so I want to give you and Corinne a heads up on the date! We are planning for August 19, 2017 and would love if you could make it!

Hello Kimbo, Judithness and Dallas! Trust everyone is well. Congratulations on your engagement , Kimbo. Wonderful news indeed! Thanks for thinking of us and giving us advance warning about the date. WE'd certainly love to attend your wedding and will do everything possible to arrange our lives in order to do so. Congratulations, again, and best wishes to you, Kimbo. Cheers, Patrizzio!

Hi, Patrick and Corinne: Good to see you at the Trivia Night and then for dinner last weekend.  Next up: India.  So exciting!!!!!!   Here are a few tips for you . . .

On the Road

Most of the time, passengers on driving tours of India sit in the back.  But I strongly recommend taking turns sitting up front with the driver.  You see quite a bit more!

Cafe Coffee Day
Keep eyes open for this modern coffee shop -- sometimes located roadside, also found in cities.  There is nothing especially interesting about it, except that there are clean, Western-style washrooms.   Avail yourself of any opportunity to stop at one.  The chain has aspirations of being a sort of Indian Starbucks.

Another bathroom tip (women only): I find the between-the-car-doors method far preferable to taking chances on the very dodgy washroom facilities typically available at roadside cafes, etc.  Open both doors on one side of the vehicle and use the space in between for privacy. (Meanwhile, the driver takes a short walk in the opposite direction).  I felt a little uncomfortable at first about asking to stop for pee-breaks.  But you'll get over it!

Restaurants

Indian Coffee House - follow this link to read about the famous Indian Coffee House.  It has a fascinating history, and it still worker-owned.  There are locations in several cities.  The Raj-style uniforms of the waiters are themselves a good enough reason to go at least once.

I'm not sure if you are going to all of the locations listed below, but I've listed a few restaurants that I can recommend.  Very often, the easiest thing will be just to have dinner at  your hotel, and it is usually pretty good (often buffet-style).  Some of the suggestions below are  at hotels other than where you will be staying  -- recommended because of the atmosphere and/or quality of food.  Others are independent restaurants, recommended for the same reason.  There are a number at which you will see more Indian families than tourists -- seems more authentic!

In many places, you can order a thali, and I highly recommend this -- it's a platter (to serve one individual) with small servings of half-a-dozen or so different dishes, usually accompanied by rice, naan, papadum, and dessert.

Jaipur
LMB Restaurant

Niros

Delhi
Chor Bizarre
Despite the unpromising name, this is a great higher-end restaurant with unusual decor.  They have a location in London (Mayfair) too. 

Jaisalmer
Jaisal Treat

Tiruchirappalli (Trichy)
Banana Leaf - Can't find a website although there are online reviews.

Varanasi
Haifa Hotel restaurant  - Great value!  Quite close by if you are staying at Palace on Ganges or another hotel near Assi Ghat.

Jodhpur
On the Rocks

Thanjavur (Tanjore)
Sahana Vegetarian Restaurant (Hotel Gnanam)

Thekkady (Periyar)
Spice Garden Restaurant - online reviews available but no website

Mysore
Tiger Trail Restaurant (Royal Orchid Metropole Hotel)

Tours

In Mumbai, I would highly recommend half-day and evening tours offered by Reality Travel & Tours.  These will really show you a side of India that tourists don't usually see.  There are ethical concerns about the "slum tours" but this group has well-defined parameters (e.g. no photos allowed) and emphasizes positive aspects.  Their approach is respectful and they give back to the community.

In Delhi, Vikram Kalra is an artist/historian who can take you on absolutely fascinating historical walking tours in areas where you will rarely see another tourist!  I think he may have had a disagreement with Luxe India, so you might want to contact him directly and make your own arrangements (if you have free time in Delhi).  He is expensive, I think, but very much worth it.  Also took me to a community Gujarati restaurant which was great -- totally untouristy.  He is a lovely person, too.

In Jaipur, Luxe arranged a walking tour for me of the Pink City.  It was great too.  I don't remember the name of the guide.  But it's worth an inquiry to Luxe (again, if you have time).

Tipping

Tipping is a strain -- not because of the cost (it's not a lot for us, but extremely important to local guides, waiters, drivers etc., as they are not paid a living wage, and have to depend on them).  The difficulty is the need to constantly have a supply of notes easily at hand.  It is hard to find small denominiations, so snap up any and all  opportunities to acquire 10, 20 and 50 notes.

For luggage, 20 per bag is about right.  If someone is moving bags for 4 people, 100 would be a reasonable tip.

You will have several different drivers -- whenever you meet a new driver, ask if you will be seeing him again, and tip just once, at the end.  For example, you might have a driver pick you up at the airport and then collect you the next morning to take you to the train station.  You need tip just once, at the train station.

For your "main" drivers -- the ones you are with for days or weeks at a time -- again, you need tip only at the end.  During my second visit (2012) Luxe suggested 500 per day, but after consulting with a friend who's been many times, I figured that was too low.  It might be what affluent Indians are prepared to pay, but it feels better to me to err on the side of generosity.  It is not that much to us and it is really important to them.  The drivers take pride in their work, take your safety and comfort extremely seriously,  and endeavour to meet all your needs and interests.   If you say you want to go the Indian Coffee House, they will take note and make sure it happens.   They spend long hours waiting while you are on tours with local guides, etc.   I tipped 1000 rupees per day, but for 4 people, I think a driver would be very happy with 1600 per day.

Drivers are accustomed to taking you to a restaurant and waiting for you during the meal.  It's nice for them, though, if you can sometimes give them an evening "off."

In many places you will have a local guide to take you to the sites.  The tip amount can vary, depending on how long they are with you.  If it's a full-day tour (either in a single day or split over two days), I would go with around 800.  If the guide is exceptional, you could stretch to 1000.  If you're not happy with the guide, 500 is acceptable for a day.

Comfort

Luxe was really helpful about arranging a "wash-and-change" at no extra cost on my last trip.  This was at the end of a dusty (always!) day of driving and sightseeing, and before a long, overnight train trip from Raipur to Varanasi.  They found a nice mid-range hotel where I was able to go and shower, change etc. before facing the long night ahead.

Also, as flights home invariably seem to leave at about 2:00 a.m., on another trip, they arranged a "half-night" at a hotel (at preferential pricing) so that again, it was possible to shower and change for the long trip home. Hope all of this helps, and hope you have a fabulous trip!!!!!! (Look forward to reading the blogs . . . ) Love, Janet

Hi Janet! First of all, thank you, again, for the lovely, lovely evening. It was a delight to meet Dan and the meal was more than scrumptious. Thank you, as well, for the rupees and the very helpful, latest tips! Certainly much appreciated. I had intended to send along an earlier message to thank you for dinner but time simply evaporated, what with moving from Kits back to False Creek and then festival going and volunteering.

Before I forget, will you be at Dunbar on Monday as I'd like to to return your eReader. I forgot to do so on Sunday! Much appreciate the offer but it is one of the items we have to "jettison"! Let me know and we'll plan accordingly. Has been a whirlwind ever since we said goodbye last Sunday evening. Fond regards from Cora Lee. All the best, Janet. Cheers, Patrizzio! Pics: Sunday evening!