Sunday 29 November 2015

Bikaner Blues: Monday, November 30th!


I was thrown out of college for cheating on the metaphysics exam; I looked into the soul of the boy sitting next to me. -Woody Allen, author, actor, and filmmaker (b. 1 Dec 1935)

 
Good morning explorers!! xoxo Hi Twitter Goil! Off to breakfast shortly as we leave at 8:00 am for a 7 hour drive to Bikaner. Yesterday's sunset camel camel ride was a blast!

Love Nana on a camel!! She could ride to the market in Penticton!! She can take kids for rides while their parents shop!
 

Maggie Carr Hey Patrizzio, I need your postal code!
Maggie Carr to Patrick James Dunn Happy birthday coming up in a week.
Dear avid hikers, Enclosed 2 group photos from Monday. See you next week
Tanja


Fellow bridgers! With one month to go before the coveted 2015 BASTARD Awards, Clive is falling precipitously and losing serious ground to Byron who has maintained his second place over the past month. A jockeying for position between Dave T, Les, Robert and Dave Mc who are all so close, it's anyone's call!
 

If you want to get really confused, look at the attached spreadsheet and
under the tab "Points by Month", you'll see how the rankings changed during
the year! Current rankings (average points per hand) at end November:
Clive 147.3; Byron 142.5; Winston 142.3; Dave T 140.1; Les 137.7; Robert 137.0; Dave Mc 136.2; Roger 120.1;Patrick 120.0; John 112.2



My god I still have a chance for the coveted award????? Regards: David

Dear Clive
[Bob Altwein The marble sculpture of this roman emperor, is in the same room as the Market gate of Miletus, seen in the background,]


Congratulations on an excellent spreadsheet and a hot end-of-year race.
The "New Lord Byron" is breathing down your hairy neck. Something extraordinary happenned to the Old Lord Byron on Hardy Island.  What is the breakdown of the Pre-Hardy-Island and Post-Hardy-Island results? Surely you can assemble even more exciting graphs and data? This warrants a paper in the Vancouver Sun. All Best David
Hrmph. I don't need an award to tell me I'm a bastard.

Bob Altwein Pergamon Museum Berlin, Berlin-Mitte You won't want to miss this collection if you ever come to Berlin. It is in one of the city's most iconic museums, located on Museum Island (on the Spree River). According to www.visitberlin.de the Capital has 175 museums.
http://www.smb.museum/…/museums-an…/pergamonmuseum/home.html


Bob Altwein "Over life sized statue of a Roman Emperor (maybe Claudius) with the head of Trajan added in the early 2nd century AD, found in Pergamon, Pergamon Museum Berlin." Both the text and photo are from Wikipedia.

A couple are at the airport in Phoenix, awaiting their flight. They are dressed in heavy boots, parka, scarf, mittens, and all ready to head home to the Canadian winter.
An older American couple standing nearby are intrigued by their manner of dress, so the wife says to her husband, "Look at that couple. I wonder where they're from?" He replies, "How would I know?" She counters, "You could go and ask them." He says, "I don't really care. You want to know, you go ask them." She decides to do just that, walks over to the couple and says, "Excuse me, I’ve noticed the way you're dressed and I wonder where you're from." The man, who happens to be a Canadian farmer, replies, "Saskatoon, Saskatchewan." The woman returns to her husband. “So, where are they from?" he asks. She replies, "I don't know. They don't speak English."


Kurt Traugott It's in full swing here.....Clayton, panama Patrick James Dunn In full swing here in Jaisalmer, at the Jain Temple within the fort which stands amidst the sandy expanse of the great Thar Desert, on Trikuta Hill. Its massive yellow sandstone walls are a tawny lion colour during the day, fading to honey-gold as the sun sets, thereby camouflaging the fort in the yellow desert. For this reason, it is also known as the Sonar Quila or Golden Fort. Kurt Traugott Sounds like u r having to good a time, glad u deserve it.... I'll be going home on Saturday and hopefully not stay too long..... Hugs Kurt

Ciao Patrizzio, I just talked to Jane, and she told me about another fascinating travel report from you, but I have not received it. Of course, you could have taken me off your mailing list as a disciplinary measure of some kind, but it rather seems the list was chopped off after the letter j. Desperately waiting for your reply, Marcello 

Many thanks for the birthday greetings Patrick. Jim passed them on to me together with a lengthy account of one of your travel days. What a great area to be in - somewhere that I have wanted to go to. Have only been to the border of India from the Nepal side. I much enjoy contemporary Indian authors who in my view write some of the best English language today.
I do hope you have really great travels. Many thanks again for the greetings ( I did have a super birthday celebration - Jim was here for the w/e which was great) Lots of good wishes to you both Jan


Patriçio, I read (or skim) your travelogs with envy, being bound in the homestead taking care of my cantankerous old Dad. You really have to learn to be more terse!!! Anyway, guess what! I hail from Penticton! You may be surprised. But, my squash circle was planning a get together as the two girls had birthdays to celebrate. So in debating the venue, I thought, hey Conductoré is in India, I have the code to his back door, …. road trip!!!!  Anyway, we rented a small van, and crashed your place Friday. Had a great party last night, just watching the Grey Cup, will head back tomorrow. Sorry for the dent in your malt supply and we won’t have time to clean up the pizza boxes or the pots and pans, but some of the dishes will fit in your dish washer. Awesome weekend!!! Looking forward to another “construction visit” as you have a chop saw now!






 

Saturday 28 November 2015

Fort Rajwada Golden City Blues: Sunday, November 29th!

Thought is the blossom; language the bud; action the fruit behind it. -Ralph Waldo Emerson, writer and philosopher (1803-1882) 


Hi Jos and Aarturo! Trust you are both well. Just dashing this off as we have been here since yesterday, a two-overnighter stop, but didn't have time to send any messages. Must away as I need to shower and head out for breakfast. Tour of Jaisalmer begins at 9:00 am this morning. Last night we visited a spot just outside city to watch the sunset and then had dinner at a local spot. Had the place entirely to ourselves. Food was terrific and we enjoyed the waiter so a grand time! Fondestos from Lady Darjeeling, showering as I speak, to you both! Cheers, Patrizzio! 

Pics: Sunset; Walled city we will visit today; On the rooftop of Jaisal Treat; "Beautiful and peaceful" cows! PS: I couldn't open the two pictures sent with first message! Just a short answer (I can never wrote like you ...). Good to hear from you read your stories. The Jain Temple is simply stunning! Beautiful shots.
We are of to Hawaii Tuesday, among other activities, I will perform on the beach for a wedding! Cheers for Patriandi, kisses for Darjeeling


Hello The Sisterhood! Trust everyone is well. Cheers, Patrizzio!  Good morning explorers!! xoxo

[Greetings from The Golden City of Jaisalmer, outside a Jain temple with our guide, Naresh!]

Jaisalmer Fort stands amidst the sandy expanse of the great Thar Desert, on Trikuta Hill, and has been the scene of many battles. Its massive yellow sandstone walls are a tawny lion colour during the day, fading to honey-gold as the sun sets, thereby camouflaging the fort in the yellow desert. For this reason, it is also known as the Sonar Quila or Golden Fort

Hi Snowshoe Kids! Great snapolas of the the gang snow-shoeing and the deer relaxing! Have a blast in Hawaii. Just waiting for Lynne and Peter to come to our room to have drinks before dinner near the pool. Had a blast on a sunset camel ride an hour or so ago. I plan to post it on YouTube as soon as I'm able to upload it. Here is a two-part account of stay in Jodhpur. Fort first, market next! Cheers, Patrizzio! Hi again Snowshoe Kids! Have to dash as we are off to dinner! Cheers, Patrizzio!


[Hi Twitter Goil! Off to breakfast shortly as we leave at 8:00 am for a 7 hour drive to Bikaner. Yesterday's sunset camel camel ride was a blast!]

Dear Patrick and Corinne: Oh my goodness . . .  sorry to hear about your bad experience at On The Rocks!

I must admit that it wasn't my most robust recommendation, having been there just once,  while still recovering from a bout of Delhi Belly (actually acquired in Jaipur).  My worst health misadventure during 3 trips to India!  That was early during the first trip in 2009 -- the organized group trip.  Our Canadian leader (Jonathan, excellent, and veteran of extensive travel in India) took us to On the Rocks, and I don't recall it particularly vividly at all (one way or the other).  So in suggesting it, I expected it to be at least "good."   
 

[Love Nana on a camel!! She could ride to the market in Penticton!! She can take kids for rides while their parents shop! She even parks the camel better than the Equinox and think of all the wine it could haul off the Naramata Bench xoxo I'm planning to give her a back-up camera for the saddle!. Must away as we are off to ride elephants, now being experts on camels! Love and Cheers!]

On the other hand, I really loved the Jaisal Treat, and am greatly reassured that you apparently enjoyed it too.   I went there 3 times during my brief (two-night) stay in Jaisalmer, while on my second trip to India in 2012.    For dinner on the first night.  Then, after visiting the fort, etc. the next morning,  spent the afternoon there, by myself.  It was deserted and I went up to the open rooftop, which afforded great views of Jaisalmer while I wrote postcards etc.  Attentive but unintrusive wait staff brought naan, raita, soda, etc.  It was such a pleasant experience that I returned the next day for a repeat, while awaiting my 5 p.m. overnight train from Jaisalmer to Delhi.    Earlier that morning, I had gone on a "village visit," initially disappointing, but ultimately a fantastic experience, as it transpired that a wedding celebration was underway, and I was invited as a guest of honour.    It was for real -- not concocted for tourists.

Speaking of "concocted for tourists" though, what did you think of the Jaisalmer sunset camel trip?   I was underwhelmed, apart from the beautiful sunset.  Here's what I wrote about it on my blog: Thursday, January 12, 2012 - Camel Trap.

Sounds like you are having a really great trip -- that's wonderful.  Not sure if you've tried any of the other restaurants I recommended (if so, better than On The Rocks, I hope!) (Are you posting hotel and restaurant reviews on TripAdvisor?) Following your trip and looking at your photos with great interest.  Look forward to seeing you again soon(ish), Janet 


Hi All, For those who are planning on joining us for tomorrow's hike up Wildhorse Mountain and/or possibly beyond, it is suggested that you bring slip-on traction devices for your hiking boots if you have them. The snow is just deep enough to make for slippery conditions but not deep enough for snowshoes or to provide much traction. See you tomorrow, Peter



 

Friday 27 November 2015

Jaisalmer Long Haul Blues: Saturday, November 28th!

When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace. -Jimi Hendrix, musician, singer, and songwriter (27 Nov 1942-1970)


Hi Donna Maria and Heraldo! Trust you are both well. Just dashing this off as we have been here since day before yesterday but didn't have time to send many messages. The attached album shows our visit to Ranakpur, after leaving Mount Abu, (First two shots are of hotel there with magnificent rug), and then driving to Jodhpur. 

[Just 2 because I left my memory card at home and my internal memory was
full! Enjoy, Aart]


This is a wonderful city as well and I hope to be able to send account of time here in next day or so. Had a bit of a disturbing night as fire-alarm kept going on and off from 2:30 am until 4:40 am. Poor Lady Darjeeling was not amused as she couldn't get back to sleep. Did so about 5:00 am and is now doing some heavy duty wind tunnel experiments. Must away as I need to shower and pack. We are off at 9:00 am for a longish drive of 7 hours or so to Jaisalmer, our next two-overnighter stop. Fondestos from Sleeping Beauty to you both. Cheers, Patrizzio!

Beautiful and Peaceful Just a short answer (I can never wrote like you ...). Good to hear from you read your stories. The Jain Temple is simply stunning! Beautiful shots. We are of to Hawaii Tuesday, among other activities, I will perform on the beach for a wedding! Cheers for Patriandi, kisses for Darjeeling


With respect to the sunset camel ride, it was, perhaps, the highlight of our stay in Jaisalmer. Our guide, Naresh, was terrific. His explications were informative without being pedantic. Aside from not boating on the artificial lake we had seen, more or less, more impressive examples of this, (Udaipur), and the fort, (Jodhpur), and Jain temples, (Ranakpur/Mount Abu), so while it was still interesting, of course, to see these sites in Jaisalmer, we were not bowled over. Found the city within the fort to be extremely dirty and the majority of stalls/stores/hawkers selling tawdry/tacky wares. The vegetable market wasn’t nearly as extensive as ones we’d seen elsewhere but I suppose that is to be expected, given the limited ability of the surrounding countryside to grow as much, water being the key factor in this desert area.


Given what I’ve said, [We were already a tad disappointed about city.], as well as our mild misgivings about taking a camel ride, to begin with, we were more than surprised to find that we were all absolutely delighted with our time on the ships of the desert. I don’t think we ever stopped laughing at one thing or another or at each other or the other tourists, whether astride camels or on camel-drawn carts, a sleigh-ride on sand!  Mounting and dismounting were the trickiest but once aboard and aloft, (Quite a sensation when the majestic beast stands or sits. Felt almost like a Rajashtani puppet being jerked this way and that!), we enjoyed the swaying rhythm of the camels’ gait. Loved watching the padded hoofs of the camel in front as we climbed or descended the dunes near the end of the ride.



Our drovers were lovely, friendly, helpful, solicitous men. [The one leading the camels ridden by Lady Dar and Lynne left them unattended, at one point, for a short time, to relieve himself, raising his skirts and squatting, a short way off the track, but they managed quite well as their steeds simply followed the camel ahead.] After we found our own “private” dune, they sat on the side of the dune, smoking and chatting quietly, the camels ruminating placidly. I took the opportunity to examine their teeth and took care not to get too, too close as the large uppers and lowers looked pretty capable of inflicting a very nasty bite! Even managed a wonderful close-up of a ding beetle which one of the guides picked up and held while I snapped away.



Ironically, the sunset was not as spectacular at the one we witnessed the previous evening, partially obscured, as it was, by low cloud cover. Not that we minded at all, so enchanted by the hundreds of other camels that dotted the surrounding dunes, silhouetted like some Arabian Nights magic lantern show. In fact, we could hardly believe how many other tourists there were, although we never felt crowded or crushed. Everyone had more than enough desert heaven so we drank in the Rudolph Valentino/Lawrence of Arabia moments to our hearts’ content.



Just before the barely visible sun sank below the horizon, we asked our drovers to take us back to the waiting van, [Near the almost barrack-like tent cities which line the highway for kilometres here, places, apparently where many tourists wish to stay overnight to get the “real” desert experience!], the return route much shorter. By this time we were used to riding so I, for one, was a tad disappointed that the ride was over almost before it had begun. Nevertheless, most enjoyable and entertaining. We thanked and tipped our drovers and then Ashok drove us back to Jaisalmer, about 40 km.

Your camel ride video will be live at: https://youtu.be/cOSJ6_JtzsM

En route to the city, we chatted with Naresh about is family, (arranged marriage), and his work. He has been guiding for the last eight years or so. When the season for guiding is over he returns to his village, with his family, (mother, father, wife, four year old daughter), for three or four months, an enforced holiday, of sorts, as there is no, or very, very little opportunity for other work, in Jaisalmer, during the heat of the summer or the monsoon season. We dropped him off, close to his house, thanking and tipping him for his excellent guiding, and then returned to the hotel.



Thanked Ashok for all his chauffeuring and told him we would be ready to leave at 8:00 am, on the dot! Back to our rooms to shower all the desert sand off our feet and then we reconvened, in our room, for drinks before dinner. Tasty meal in the restaurant there but back to our rooms before 10:00 pm as everyone was sleepy after the “punishing” camel ride. Goodnight to the Lighthalls and then I packed as much as I could before brushing and flossing. Tried to upload one of the videos I’d taken of camel ride but ran out of magabytes so had to abort the ransfer. Too sleepy to go to desk and ask for more time. Hope to mount it on YouTube when in Bikaner so stay tuned. Lady Dar was asleep by the time I was ready for bed and I only read a few chapters before I turned out the lights, falling asleep thinking about the mini-roller-coaster camel ride!
 

Thursday 26 November 2015

Mehrangarh Fort Blues: Friday, November 27th!

The best theology is probably no theology; just love one another. -Charles Schulz, cartoonist (26 Nov 1922-2000) 



Tree Lots Are Officially Open!

Aunt Leah's 4 Tree lots are now open, the sun is shining and we are ready to make a difference in our communities. Last year your volunteer shift was equivilant to a $281 donation!!! This funding helps prevent youth homeless and keeps families together.

We have many shifts filled, but we still need your help! Please contact Chloe Dunn to book your shift today and let's create a culture of caring in our communities. Online booking will end December 3rd. We are also still looking for Greenery Experts, Santas, and Greeters. If you would like to be involved in one of these roles please contact us.


To Schedule a Shift: Please Call Chloe Dunn at 604-525-1204 ext. 252
Online Registration Closes December 3rd: http://auntleahsplace.fullslate.com/

Hi Kids! Here is a two-part account of stay in Jodhpur. Fort first, market next!
Have to dash as we are off to the desert to ride camels! Cheers, Patrizzio! Jodhpur: Part II

Day 30, Field Report:  Friday, November 27th:  Jodhpur!



Up at 7:00 am after enjoying a grand sleep as the duvet was the thinnest we’ve had so wasn’t baking to death all night, although Lady Dar wasn’t as happy, preferring to sleep in sauna-like conditions whenever possible! Didn’t have to meet our guide until 9:30 am so I had a chance to digitate for a bit before showering and heading down for breakfast, a gannet’s tasty helping of baked beans, grilled tomatoes and a delicious masala omelette.



Back to the room to ready ourselves for the day’s outing and then once more downstairs to find Ashok waiting for us. We drove into town where we collected our guide, Sandeep, a cool dude, if ever there was one, sporting a fine moustache, bejeweled and bejangled, wearing jodhpurs and a wide-brimmed hat, he looked quite a bit like a dashing Rajashtani version of Pancho Villa.
First order of the day was to stop at an HDFC ATM for cold cash. We had to cross over a very busy thoroughfare and I remarked, once safely across the divided street I remarked to my companions that the task of dodging the steady stream of cows, goats, motorbikes, cars and trucks was almost more dangerous than robbing a bank! Sandeep enjoyed the observation! Pockets bulging with wads of rupees we returned to the van and drove towards Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest forts in India. Built around 1460 by Rao Jodha, the fort is situated 410 feet/125 m above the city and is enclosed by towering, rather imposing, to say the least, massively thick walls.

However, our first stop was at The Jaswant Thada, “a white marble memorial built by Sardar Singh in 1899 in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The Jaswant Thada is the traditional cremation ground of Jodhpur rulers. The grounds also include exquisitely carved gazebos, a beautiful multi-tiered garden, and a small lake.” The morning was wonderfully cool, with a slight breeze so we were most comfortable as Sandeep introduced us to the history of the city, some of its customs and the story behind the royal mausoleum. He left us to explore the multi-terraced grounds surrounding the impressive structure as well as visiting the interior itself. At various points along the way. local musicians played traditoinal instruments, choosing the music to fit the time of day. Man inside the memorial itself was playing a flute-like instrument and the acoustics were spell-binding. Views of the Fort, higher up, from the smoothly paved patios, were magnificent so I was able to snap away to my heart’s content.

Back to the van to drive the short distance to the main entrance to the Fort itself. There are seven gates, two of which include “Jayapol, (meaning 'victory'), built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories over Jaipur and Bikaner armies, and Fattehpol, (also meaning 'victory'), built by Maharaja Ajit Singh to mark the defeat of the Mughals.” An astonishingly impressive structure from a distance, simply mind-boggling up close. Risked putting a permanent crick in my neck trying to capture some of the towering ramparts. While the Fort itself is not as extensive a complex, as a whole, as Carcassonne, the sheer magnitude of the walls and ramparts here certainly rival Carcassonne. After entering the Fort we took an elevator to one of the upper floors to begin our tour. Sandeep carefully shepherded us through a never-ending series of galleries and rooms, explaining their use and significance as we moved from one floor to another, climbing higher all the while. 


At the top we were afforded wonderful views of much of Jodhpur, (aka The Blue City as many of the houses are painted blue.), as well as of the surrounding hills, where one could see the remains of the massive walls which once encircled and protected the city. Last stop before lunch was in the small but interesting museum/gallery which displayed such items as howdahs, palanquins, armour, and the like, as well as the “finest collection of paintings from the Marwar School. Court painting in Jodhpur developed greatly during 17th Century through the association of Marwar's Rulers with the Mughal Emperors. During the 18th and 19th centuries it evolved into a distinctive Rajasthani style, combining Mughal naturalism with local folk style and bold colours.”



Sandeep suggested the café in the Fort and we had a lovely lunch there. The Chicken Pakora which both Lynne and Cora Lee ordered was divine as I discovered. Lynne could barely eat but half of her portion and I was charged with consuming the rest. This I did with gusto as the chunks were delish, all washed down with fresh lime and soda, sweetened, to taste, with sugar water, if one so desired. I had a red bean/lentil dish which was very tasty and Jugos had a version of Chili Relleno, also scrumptious, according to him. Sandeep had chips and a club-house sandwich, with a Kingfisher!



After lunch he took us to an antique emporium, literally a huge warehouse filled with both antiques and modern replicas of antiques, acres and acres of them, filling the first floor. In the high-ceilinged basement, of similar size, we found room after room after room filed with cloth and fabric of all sorts. The owner, a young, svelte Jain, had his spiel down pat and, after seating us in our private compartment, showed us about ten samples of the sort of cloth they are known for here, from six-ply cotton duvets by the Kalbeliya and Bopa women, [“Although very different, both are called “gypsy” in the local languages. The lowest level in the Hindu caste system, they live without permanent homes and are seen as squatters and hustlers.  Moving from place to place, sleeping beneath the stars on the outskirts of towns, the Bopa and Kalbeliya share the bad reputation of gypsies the world over.” To date, we have seen many encampments, (We would call them little more than homeless shelters made from tarps, branches and cardboard, cooking on small open fires. This morning, many of their possessions were tied, in bags, to the lower branches of trees, along the roadside, not that far from our “luxury” hotel.), probably more in Rajasthan than elsewhere as I believe they are called “Queens of the desert.”], to the finest cashmere throws, coverings or shawls, in designs created for various international fashion houses such as Hermes, Donna Karan, Kenzo, and the like.  For such designers, our Jain entrepreneur “claimed” to have a number of “extras” from the various production runs done for these houses so he was able to pass them along at greatly reduced prices.



All in all the pieces were wonderfully attractive and, given the quality, very inexpensive. Cora Lee and I ended up purchasing two pieces, embroidered cotton, one king, one queen, to use as duvets, colours chosen to match the soon-to-be-repainted bedrooms at Burns Street! Cora Lee also picked up a cashmere throw for the couch in the Rumpus Room. Total bill was $320 plus a shipping cost of $60. Lynne and Peter bought one large cashmere throw and four shawls so we bundled everything together and are having package shipped to Emporium’s agent in Vancouver, as samples, (to avoid duty!), to be delivered to Naramata a few days after the Lighthalls arrive home. Wonder if this scam will work with Customs so stay tuned, especially since we are having two rugs delivered to our house around the same time!



Deals concluded, The Sisterhood insisted on looking at jewelry upstairs so more Power Shopping. Shortly thereafter, the Jain’s coffers even fuller, we waved goodbye and Sandeep took us to the old part of Jodhpur to visit the daily market. Bustling, noisy with the incessant honking and beeping of motorbikes and shouts of vendors, but not unpleasantly crowded as we wandered the streets in front of the myriad stalls and shops selling everything from vegetables and fruit, to household goods and cooking oil, dispensed in plastic bags, to cheap toys and costume jewelry. Also passed a row of shoemakers fabricating sandals out of used car tires next to women selling used clothing, piles and piles of it arrayed in front of them. Also walked past a much smaller version of the cloth market we’d seen in Bombay but didn’t wander through it. Tour of the market over, Sandeep called Ashok to collect us and we made our way back towards the hotel. Dropped Sandeep off close to where he lived. Thanked him for the extraordinarily interesting tour and waved goodbye after tipping him.



Back to the hotel by 5:00 pm to repair to the alcove outside our rooms for a much needed drink. Kingfisher for Jugos and Lady Dar while I finished of the last of my Fenny from Goa. Lynne opted for bottled water as we had been invited to a party, to be hosted by Ashok at 7:00 pm. After rehashing the events of the day we returned to our rooms to bathe and change. Did a bit of digitating before we went downstairs where Ashok collected us at the hotel entrance. He drove a short distance from the hotel to park by the roadside and we then proceeded to enjoy several snorts of Old Monk and Thums Up Cola. He provided everything and we were quite touched by his desire to do so. We spent a most interesting time chatting with him about his family, his arranged marriage, his children and how he came to be a driver for one of the companies that Luxe India sub-contracts to. He started out, as a five-year old, pumping air at his village garage and eventually became a BMW mechanic. Fascinating to manage to get to know, if only slightly, this lovely, gentle man.



Around 8:00 pm the rum was finished and we were feeling rather well-lubed so Ashok drove us to a restaurant that Janet had recommended: On The Rocks. Sandeep knew it as well so we were looking forward to the meal. The setting, outside in a lovely garden setting, was most pleasant but unfortunately, the meal was perhaps the worst we’d had to date. The coconut mutton stew was abominable, nothing but gristle and almost un-chewable, tough, stringy chunks of flesh. The potatoe dish, while somewhat tasty was stone cold. The chicken with spinach was the best of a bad lot, tasty enough but the rice was dry and cold so even the sauce lost much of its appeal. The cauliflower and peas were “Ok”, according to Lynne, but I must say that, overall, I was very disappointed in the quality of the food, given what delectable fare we’ve usually been served. Still, the 2015 Sula Sauvignon Blanc was crisp and flavourful so I drowned my sorrows in my cups.



Back home with Ashok. Once at the hotel we arranged to leave by 9:00 am as we had a long drive ahead that day.  Bade goodnight to one another and repaired to our rooms. Managed to read a few chapters of After the Crash before my head wanted tot crash into the pillow.

Wednesday 25 November 2015

Jodhpur Blue City Blues: Thursday, November 26th!

We haven't yet learned how to stay human when assembled in masses. -Lewis Thomas, physician and author (25 Nov 1913-1993)


I'd prefer one with either wine or malt bottles, preferably full ones! Perhaps these ladies could help. They seem to have quite an ability for arrangement!

Day 29, Field Report: Thursday, November 29th: Mount Abu to Jodhpur!

Up when my alarm went off, a few minutes after Lady Darjeeling who had taken a look outside to gauge the day. Staff had not re-stocked the java so I decided to have a cup of Darjeeling along with Lady Dar. Quite enjoyed it although I took mine with sugar, unlike Her Ladyship. I did most of my packing while she showered and once she was finished, I followed, ever the obsequeoid! Sent a few messages before we joined Jugos and Lynne for breakfast. Glad to find Lynne feeling better as she was quite ill after dinner last night, unfortunately.


While I was enjoying my Masala Omelette and baked beans, Cora Lee was planning our next trip with the couple from Kenya. Dipti and Kiran live in Nairobi and are here on a Jain pilgrimage. Apparently there is a large Jain population there, 9,000. They are driving themselves so must be used to the “rules” of the roads here. Dipti likes to eat street-food but Kiran won’t allow it so we are wondering about the effects of yesterday’s foray into local fare! They have tasted in Napa/Sonoma so I guess I won’t mind staying with them. At first I was worried about freeloading as most Jains don’t drink alcohol. Tour Leader Cora Lee exchanged email addresses and we said goodbye to return to the room to finish packing.

Ready to go right at 9:00 am when Ashok pulled up in the van. When Lady Dar was settling the bill she witnessed a rather ugly incident. There had been a large tour bus of German tourists staying the night and the group leader made a nasty scene when he found that he had been charged for his first beer, claiming that everywhere else in India it had been free. He went on and on about how he was bringing in much business, etc., but the Manager wouldn’t budge. Corinne said she had seen him earlier, smoking like a fiend. She could also smell alcohol on his breath so not a particularly pleasant individual and certainly not someone I’d like to have leading any group I was part of. Liked th epart about free beer, however so must try it sometime!

At any rate I learned all this once we were underway as I asked how much she had had to pay for WiFi access. I was going to pay once we’d checked in, (I had been in withdrawal ever since Udaipur!), but Manager said we could settle up when we checked out. Turned out we were not charged a single rupee. Not sure if they forgot to add it to our bill or if the Manager waived the user fee. Jugos and I had had a very pleasant conversation with him, the night before, when we were having our post-prandials in the spacious living room. He has worked for the hotel for over twenty years and he and his family live, on site, in quarters provided for all the staff. 


Furthermore, we’d asked for a pack of playing cards last night, after dinner, thinking we might play a few hands of Three-Handed Bridge on the patio and he said he would send the cards to our room. They never arrived and so when a young man came by to bring fresh towels we asked him for some playing cards. He returned a few minutes later bringing us two bowls of plain curd! Hard to keep from bursting out laughing but we managed to contain ourselves, thanking him profusely but declined his well-intentioned service. Lost in Translation strikes again!

We retraced our route, down the mountain out fo Mount Abu, past Monkey Mile, marveling, again, at the families of Langurs sitting on the retaining walls, looking quizzically at all which passed, as we braved the curves and sharp hairpin turns. Had seen a huge male at the temple yesterday. I tried to snap a photo of him, high on the ramparts of the wall near the entrance but he leapt down to street level and bounded through the lane we were walking on, paying little heed to the throngs, before i could capture him in pixels. I was taken aback by the size of his hunches, by far the largest monkey we'd seen, the others much more delicate of face, limb and torso. Further along, near one of the many pull-outs, we chortled to see a car which had stopped, presumable to take pictures of the view or Langurs, or both, covered withe the latter!


Back to the village at the bottom of Mount Abu to proceed in a northeasterly direction, through quite arid flatland, covered with fairly regular scrub of some sort. Half an hour or so of this landscape and Ibrahim just stopped for us so that we could snap a few pictures of a water-buffaloe driven water-wheel, raising water by the bucket from a small weir to irrigate the nearbye fileds, I presume. Still pretty dry looking landscape here. Gave an old lady, waiting below the platform on which the buffaloe circled, 20 rupees for the privilege of taking the snaps. Hard to imagine that life is little more than subsistence living given the tiny villages and stony fields. More well-built walls demarcating the plots than we have seen before. Probably do quite well with a stoneboat franchise here!

Another hour or so later we left the plain we were on to descend, quite steeply at times, through deep canyon gorges, towards a valley floor. This on a virtual ribbon of tarmac and Ashok had to pull onto the unpaved, quite rocky shoulder, to allow some vehicles to pass. Very, very winding road but still most  pleasant. More Langurs, this time cloaking a small shrine to Hanuman, appropriately. Unfortunately, we were past this delightful scene before I could snap any shots. Little traffic so that was certainly a very good thing, given the driving circumstances.


Shortly after we reached level ground we reached our first destination, Ranakpur to visit two Jain temples there. I cobbled together a bit of a description of the largest, (Said to be the most spectacular of the Jain temples.), as I really knew nothing about them at all, (Including the one in Mount abu, of course.), sad to report:  

The renowned Jain temple at Ranakpur is dedicated to Tirthankara Adinatha.
Local legend has it that Dharma Shah, a local Jain businessperson, started construction of the temple in the 15th century following a divine vision. The temple honors Adinath, the first Tirthankar and founder of the Jain religion. The town of Ranakpur and the temple are named after the provincial ruler monarch, Rana Kumbha who supported the construction of the temple.

Light colored marble has been used for the construction of this grand temple which occupies an area of approximately 60 x 62 meters. The temple, with its distinctive domes, shikhara, turrets and cupolas rises majestically from the slope of a hill. Over 1444 marble pillars, carved in exquisite detail, support the temple. The pillars are all differently carved and no two pillars are the same. It is also said that it is impossible to count the pillars. Also all the statues face one or the other statue. There is one beautiful carving made out of a single marble rock where there 108 heads of snakes and numerous tails. One cannot find the end of the tails. The image faces all four cardinal directions. In the axis of the main entrance, on the western side, is the largest image.

The temple is designed as chaumukha, ie. with four faces. The construction of the temple and quadrupled image symbolize the Tirthankara's conquest of the four cardinal directions and hence the cosmos. The architecture and stone carvings of the temple is based on the Ancient Mirpur Jain Temple at Mirpur in Rajasthan.

The construction is well documented in a 1437 CE copper-plate record, inscriptions in the temple and a Sanskrit text Soma-Saubhagya Kavya. Inspired by a dream of a celestial vehicle, Dhanna Shah, from Ghanerao a Porwal, commenced its construction, under the patronage of Rana Kumbha, then ruler of Mewar. The architect who oversaw the project was named Deepaka. There is an inscription on a pillar near the main shrine stating that in 1439 Deepaka, an architect, constructed the temple at the direction of Dharanka, a devoted Jain. When the ground floor was completed, Acharya Soma Sundar Suri of Tapa Gachha supervised the ceremonies, which are described in Soma-Saubhagya Kavya. The construction continued until 1458AD.

The temple was renovated time to time. Some famililies supported the construction of devakulikas and mandaps. The descendants of Dharanashah now mainly live in Ghanerao. The temple has been managed by the Anandji Kalyanji Pedhi trust in the past century.
There is also a small Sun temple which is managed by the Udaipur royal family trust. 

The description above does little to convey the sheer majesty of the temple which honors Adinath. Although it is so large that I spent the hour we were there without ever bumping into my travel companions, (I did catch a glimpse of Lady Dar, briefly.), one never feels that one isn't in an extremely intimate, welcoming, soothing space. To wander through the virtual forest of pillars, gazing up at the stunning carvings which adorn the domes, is an emotionally dizzying experience. The feel of the cool, flawlessly smooth flagstones beneath one's bare feet is calming and ever so therapeutic. In spite of the large number of visitors, silence, (requested as this is a living temple), prevails, for the most part.

Although we carried audio guides, (Very, very good sound and voice quality, I hasten to add.), I didn't listen for most of the time I spent inside. Felt liberating to simply wander the sacred spaces without having to be informed but rather allow the stupendous architecture and intricate carvings to speak unmediated, directly to one's senses and emotional core. In fact, I did feel quite moved as I gazed and marveled. Without question, I left the confines of the temple, if not in a state of bliss, then quietly content, feeling a sense of peace and order.

I was the first of the group to exit and sat on a stone bench, in the shade, opposite the entrance steps, to continue to drink in the singular beauty of the domes and pillars, the shimmering marble back-dropped by the hazy green of the surrounding hills. When Cora Lee joined me we strolled to the much smaller, (tiny, in comparison), Sun temple. While I was circling the temple, Lady Dar actually saw and photographed a small snake that the attendant was chasing from the inner temple. The temple proper sits in the middle of a large, flat platform, reached by a series of stairs, and actually affords another wonderful view of the main temple. After Lynne and Peter joined us and had a quick walkabout, we returned to the van and set off to have lunch at a nearbye hotel.

As one might imagine, there are many hotels in the town, supporting the busy tourist trade which the temples generate. Ashok had informed us, the day before, that Luxe India was footing the bill for our lunch, so we were looking forward to the meal and we were not disappointed, either with the food, or the building itself. We crossed a fairly long, low bridge, over a dry stream-bed to an extremely well-appointed building, a pleasing, modern copy of what of we have come to learn is the Indo-Saracen style, set in beautiful gardens. Many weddings are taking place, after Dewali, and one was being held here. We could see where the wedding ceremony was to take place as the seats, tables and such were being readied as we entered the hotel. While eating the tasty lunch we could see, in the second-floor gallery above the restaurant, members of the wedding party, dashing back and forth along the hallway.  

When we left the hotel, about an hour later, I stopped to chat to a young woman outside the entrance, asking her if she was attending the wedding. She was, in fact, and she told me that the bride was from California, the groom from India. She herself was from Mexico. At any rate, we said goodbye, wishing the wedding party well, and returned to our van. Much to our delight, just after crossing the bridge, we encountered a magnificently adorned elephant, waiting with its mahout, for the groom. According to Ashok, he would ride from there to the hotel and then the wedding ceremony would commence. A far cry from a decorated limo! Funnily enough, further along the road, in a different village, we passed another wedding party, this time with the handsome, brightly turbaned  groom, sword and all, astride a horse, surrounded by family and friends.  

We had a fairly long drive ahead of us, about three hours or so but most of it was on a national highway, 62, I believe, so it was not the bone-rattling journey that we had had to endure earlier in the day. By the time we reached the outskirts of Jodhpur it was past 6:00 pm and quite dark so we saw little, if anything, of the city, as we drove to our hotel, the Indana, a very modern edifice, in an area dedicated to quite a few different Army and Air Force units and HQ's, according the the names posted on the entrance ate we passed. Once we checked into the hotel and were escorted to our rooms, we decided we'd meet for a drink in a sitting area just outside our rooms. Lynne was quite tired so she didn't join us but the three of us enjoyed the cool evening breeze as Lady Dar and Jugos sipped beer while I preferred a G&T. We soon learned to halt our conversation as jet after jet roared over our heads. 

At dinner, downstairs in the hotel restaurant, after a number of rounds of drinks, we discovered that the civilian airport, used by the military at certain times, is close by and fighters run regular reconnaissance sorties to the border between India and Pakistan, but a 120 km or so from Jodhpur. Cora Lee and I were immediately reminded of the time we stayed in San Diego, at the house of friends situated right in the flight path of the downtown airport there. Here the flights did not stop until close to 11:30 pm but one soon becomes somewhat accustomed, if not inured, to the noise, frighteningly loud when sitting outside or walking in the open hallways, somewhat muted when inside but still an assault on the eardrums. It had been a long day so we said goodnight to Dom Jugos, hoping Lynne was feeling better in the morning, and toddled off to bed ourselves. 

Hi Corinne and Pat, how are you? Glad to hear you haven't been sick. Hope Lynn is feeling better. We are continuing to enjoy your wonderful travel diary. You are seeing so much. Rajasthan is my favourite state. It is colourful in so many ways. We went as far west as we could go and stayed in Jaisalmer. My mom and I went to explore the desert at Sam Sand Dunes and had a hysterical camel ride. Watching my mom on that awful, spitting camel trying to get off as the camel kneeled down made us both howl with laughter. It is a scene I will never forget.

We sat on a hill of sand and had a beer after our adventure. The sun disappeared into the desert and out of nowhere, a man and his son appeared playing music. That is India isn't it? It was a magical evening.

We have had cold, sunny weather for about a week which has been lovely. George's dear friends Kevin and Mairie visited us in Victoria last weekend. We had some wonderful walks and lots of delicious food. They had never been to Victoria but had been to Tofino a few times. They really enjoyed it.

We ended the weekend by taking them to Galiano. We had a fun lunch with Jake and his friends and then walked to the Point. We realized we might miss the ferry back to Vancouver if we spent a while longer on our walk. Suddenly, there was lots of laughter and excitement as they decided they could leave Monday morning to attend a conference and I decided I would be sick for the day.

We had a wonderful Sunday night listening to our favourite tunes and enjoying each other's company in the lovely warmth of of G's home. It made for a nice short week for me! I am enroute to Galliano tonight again for more beautiful sunshine and relaxation. Wishing you more good fun and travel. Hi to your pals and thanks for keeping us in the loop. love George and Jane xo



Patrick, Keep the most interesting write-ups and super photos coming - thoroughly enjoying them. Dawn

Patrick, what in the hell is this message about; I didn’t put in any credit card #s in my message to you. Or did I? You are being censored by your ex employer. Bill.

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Hi Pat,
Looks as if you are having a great time over there. Many thanks for all the photos and the video -that was classified and censored from DD (dangerous denise). Also thanks for keeping us abreast of all your daily movements. I get the impression there is a vestige of old British colonialism in the life there?
We are in a sunny cool/cold period now, having got through a pretty good monsoon stretch before. We are well except Bills raging sciatic pain rages on relentlessly. My day, week, month and year were made earlier this morning - the surgeon’s office called with a date with him and his knife soon. I couldn’t be more relieved! Hi to Corrine and keep well. Keep your emails shorter and enjoy the sights and life of India more!  Bill.