If you want a symbolic gesture, don't burn the flag, wash it. -Norman Thomas, socialist and social reformer (20 Nov 1884-1968)
Hi Lads and Lassies! [Clarisse/Patti, please show this to Dusty/Gavin!We were talking about this last night, a very specific Gimli Crown!]
This just in from Paulo, en route to Paris. I always wondered why Sharktooth Annie, (My mother, Louisa!), liked prune juice so much!
PS: Henryk: I'm really pleased to hear this since I don't have any Crown Royal in my cabinet. Probably no malt either, as no updates on work at Burns Street Bar, Social House and Watering Hole of late, although a number of police reports for disturbing the peace! Pics: Guess Jim Murray doesn't know about Goan Fenny, made from cashews!
Subject: Scots left reeling as Canadian whisky named world's best For your amusement. Prune juice?? Who knew. Paul boarding the Eurostar for Paris
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/food-and-drink/news/scots-left-reeling-as-canadian-whisky-named-worlds-best/
Hello Friends and Family! Trust everyone is well and that fall weather is pleasant enough. Going to take a bit to reprogram our internal thermostats once we are back home. Won't miss the air-conditioning, however. Last night we didn't even turn it on in our room and slept very well. Have taken to wearing a jacket downstairs for breakfast as find the dining room rather chilly. Greeted Lynne and Peter as fellow polar bears this morning! Will be off shortly so must away. Fondestos from a still ailing Lady Darjeeling who doesn't really feel well enough to join us, at least for the morning. I have suggested that we might return to collect her, later in the day, if her stomach upset allows her to do so. Cheers, Patrizzio!
PS: Somehow I never managed to send this before I dashed off this morning. Pleased to report that Lady Darjeeling is feeling much better now, particularly after her humble servant managed to find some Schweppes Ginger Ale for her ailing tummy! Had another wonderful day visiting two vibrant markets as well as seeing the city from Malabar Hill, [an upmarket VVIP residential area indeed!], and a quick, yet fascinating stop at the Chhatrapatī Shivaji Mahārāj Vastu Saṅgrahālay, formerly Prince of Wales Museum of Western India, the main museum here.
Hi Joan and Paolo, Jane and Kjell! Thanks for the link to Canadian whiskey win! Forwarded it to Henryk who is staying at our place. Cheers, Fenny Patrizzio!
Hello Quasi-Torontonians!! Trust you are both well. Have enjoyed all your updates immensely. I have always enjoyed Toronto as well, especially since I found cycling so terrific there, in addition to city's attractions, of course. Any word from John in Paris? Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hello Patrick, Have you considered uploadinfg them on a server like photobucket or flickr? Thanks for this. This ritual happens billions of times per year at home behind closed doors. You bring that to us thanks to this Indian chicken producer/butcher. Whatever the West does, India does it better (pulling the skin gets rid of the fat our doctors tell us is bad for the heart). Nothing but the finest. Make sure to get one bottle, I recall it was very affordable at the Dehli airport. Bruno
Hello Brunello and Chooch! Guess I'll be looking for Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye now! Glad you appreciated the chicken video, Brunello. Some I sent it to could not bear to watch yet I couldn't agree with you more, regarding your comments on this subject. One of the main reasons I wanted to show it. How we have become so removed/distanced/insulated from how our food is produced or comes to us. Time, time, time even to upload to Picasa. I'm always working into the wee smalls while Lady Darjeeling snores softly! Cheers, Patrizzio!
Latest Field Report below:
Day 25, Field Report: Saturday, November 21st: Bombay Markets and More!
I was up at 6:45 am to make myself a cup of Instanto and then start to send a few messages while Lady Darjeeling continued to slumber. Was pleased as I think she had a much better night. She struggled towards consciousness about 7:40 am, declining tea, opted for a shower instead. Dressed and ready to go she went downstairs, ahead of me, to take breakfast. Before I was ready to jump in the shower myself, she was back, her stomach protesting. Once she felt a bit better, she lay down for a bit while I showered and changed and we descended to the dining room together, along with a sheikh, I suppose. Have seen him, and his "minder", (again, I suppose.), a number of times since we have been staying here. We nodded to one another and when I tried to ask him if we had seen him at the kabab restaurant last night, [I know we did as I recognized him when he passed our table.], he obviously didn't understand me, [No reason he should have done so, of course.], and said he was from Saudi Arabia. He asked if I we were from Russia, [There are quite few Russians staying here.], and when I answered, "Canada", he smiled and gave me a nod of approval, saying "Canada Good", so I plan to stay with him when next in Riyad!
Have taken to wearing a jacket downstairs for breakfast as find the dining room rather chilly. Greeted Lynne and Peter, already well into their morning meal, as fellow polar bears! Since they were almost finished eating and Jugos had a number of reports to read, [He is doing some consulting work as we travel.], they left shortly after we arrived. I went to select my usual breakfast here: scrambled eggs, hash browns, (sort of), baked beans and grilled tomatoes, garnished with cucumber and tomatoe slices. When I returned to the table a lovely omelet was waiting. Cora Lee had ordered one and I guess she did the same for me so I happily started to tuck in. Unfortunately, she really wasn't feeling all that well so I ended up scoring half of her omelet, even more delicious than mine as it had a wonderful heap of melted cheese on top, something mine lacked.
My earlier Instanto had satisfied my craving for caffeine so I declined a second cup and we left to return to the room. We were not to be collected until 9:30 am so I had a bit of time to send a few messages before heading downstairs again. Cora Lee decided she's better stay in the room and rest so I kissed her goodbye and went to join the Lighthalls in the lobby. Yamini was there, chatting with my companions and after we greeted each other, we went outside to board the van Ibrahim brought close to the front of the hotel. Once aboard, we proceeded, forthwith, to Malabar Hill, taking Marine Drive, "a 4.3 km-long boulevard, a 'C'-shaped six-lane road along the coast, which is a natural bay. Marine Drive is situated over reclaimed land and a promenade lies parallel to this road. Marine Drive is also known as the Queen's Necklace because, if viewed at night from an elevated point anywhere along the drive, the street lights resemble a string of pearls in a necklace." Drive from hotel to Malabar Hill:
https://youtu.be/WiS80s8mXDk
Being Saturday, traffic was lighter than usual so it was not long before we arrived at The Hanging Gardens, also known as Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens, terraced gardens perched at the top of Malabar Hill. As we wandered the lovely, though not outstandingly beautiful park, Yamini told us about the traditional form of Parsi burial, now an extremely complex and divisive issue for the Parsi and larger Hindu/Moslem community.
As followers of Zoroastrianism, Parsi "scripture and tradition dictate that a corpse is a host for decay. Consequently, scripture enjoins the safe disposal of the dead in a manner such that a corpse does not pollute the good creation. These injunctions are the doctrinal basis of the fast-fading traditional practice of ritual exposure, most commonly identified with so-called sky burial, in which corpses are suspended from trees to be devoured, within hours, by vultures, the bones of the corpse picked clean. A sudden crash in vulture populations, caused by poisoning from livestock medications, [Namely, the drug diclofenac, given to farm animals to reduce joint pain and allow them to work longer. When farm animals die and vultures scavenge the bodies, they become exposed to the drug, causing kidney failure.], and, indeed, from similar medication used by Parsis themselves, has meant that the Parsi community has had to explore alternatives because bodies were taking too long to decompose/be devoured. Some groups introduced solar concentrators, which used the heat of the sun to dehydrate bodies and thus reduce odor and hygiene issues. But these concentrators were expensive, next to useless in monsoon season, and the heat from them actually discouraged other scavengers like crows from approaching the bodies during the day. It turns out that the most efficient replacement for vultures might just be vultures."
Across the road from the park we stopped at a look-out to gain a phenomenal view of Chowpatty Beach, (back-dropped by many of South Mumbai's skyscrapers), one of the best known public beaches adjoining Marine Drive. Unfortunately, according to Yamini, the water is far too, too polluted to allow swimming. Back in the van we drove through part of this truly magical neighbourhood, notably the most exclusive residential area in Mumbai, home to business tycoons and Bollywood film personalities. The most sought after private houses, if one can call Antilia, a 27 story building for a family of five, a private home. "It is owned by Mukesh Ambani, chairman of Reliance Industries and includes a staff of 600 to maintain the residence. As of November 2014, it was deemed to be the world's second most expensive residential property, after Buckingham Palace, which is designated as a governmental property. It is thus the world's most expensive private residential property." One's mind boggles at the über wealth and privilege of this echelon of Indian society.
Leaving behind the billioniare Tatas, (A Parsi family who own about half of India!), and their ilk, we next drove to the Lalbagh spice market, whose patron saint, so to speak, is Ganesh, so I was even happier to be there, given that I have already purchased a couple of small bronzes of the Elephant God. There is a small shrine to Ganesh at one end of the market and the merchants here fell blessed by him. Once we'd alighted from the van, Yamani walked us through the bustling, stall-lined alleyways, pointing out the meaning and use of the many wares, foodstuffs and myriad other assorted goods for sale. Was really enlightening to have her explain so much as on our own we certainly would have dismissed much of what we saw as nothing but cheap furniture, (In this case, tiny tables, decorated with the Swastika, [Considered to be a sacred and auspicious symbol in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism.], to be used at a wedding or gaudy trinkets, (In this case, images or statues of gods to be used in the small shrines people have in their homes.), when in fact these items, while, or indeed because, they are relatively inexpensive, play important roles in the various religious ceremonies and festivals celebrated by a wide variety of faiths here.
Leaving behind this section we next entered the true spice market. Most of the stalls here were of a much more permanent nature and displayed their incredible array of spices, [The mounds or huge bags of dried chillies were simply mind-boggling, not to say stunningly beautiful: Guntur, Bedki, Reshampatti or Kashmiri are the names of some of the varieties one finds here. Yamani's expert eye could tell one from the other and the specific purpose of each, some used for their fiery red colour without heat, some scaldingly hot! A little further along, a small flour mill where one brings one's own grain to be milled, check-by-jowl with coconut stalls where the owners sell either coconuts or the meat. Even sprouting coconuts, (Bit like onions or garlic that have started to sprout.), to plant at home. I asked Yamini to ask the owner of one stall if it would grow in Canada and he replied that it would take too long to get it back home. Guess he had not seen this morning's weather report from Penticton as it is supposed to be well below 0ºC for next week!
Didn't think there was much more to see but the best was waiting just around the corner where one finds a number of spice grinding mills. Most of the shops have about three of these machines, small pile drivers, in effect, with about six steel pistons in constant motion, [The noise is deafening and I can only imagine the damage that is being done to the hearing of all who work here, no ear protection in evidence!], with hoppers, of a sort, into which the spices are fed to be pulversized. Outside each of these shops a number of chaps work at a large wok-like pan with a shovel-type spatula, roasting the ingredients. Customers bring their selected spices, [We witnessed chunks of coconut being roasted first.], often in plastic bags and these admixtures are tipped into the wok in prescribed order and when everything is done, at this stage, the contents are transferred to the grinding mill for furhter processing.are also located in this area. the This market is also home to spice mixes so authentic, which the pickiest grandma would approve. You just need to let your nose lead you - the aromas will guide you to the spices long before you see them. Here, you can not only buy the spices, but can also get them dry roasted and ground into the masala mix of your choice... before your own eyes. It's not uncommon to see ladies patiently waiting, with bagful of spices, for their turn.
On the way back to the van Yasmini took us through another section of the market where traditional Indian snacks, crispy and crunchy savory goodies using lightly spiced chickpea flour, (Gluten Free for Cora Lee, Hip Hip Hooray!), are made. After trying a number of samples, we bought two, 250 gram bags of two different mixes and a bag of potatoe chips. Wish we'd picked up the largest size as they were tasty as all get-out! When we boarded the van we did so just beside three tethered, gorgeous Brahman cows, with lustrous, shining coats, brought specially to the market. The owner also brings a green fodder of some sort and people pay for handfuls to feed to the beasts, therebye bringing good luck upon themselves. No wonder the cows are so well-fed and healthy.
Next stop was to a much larger market, which one approaches through an extremely crowded, busy street, [In fact, the most crowded street scene we had ever been exposed to since our trip started, almost having to push ourselves through the noisy, jostling crowds of other shoppers and shouting hawkers, touting the wares they carried over their shoulders or had loaded onto both arms. Yasmini warned us to keep a close watch on wallets and purses but we had no trouble at all, pleased to say.] This part of the street is overrun with stalls of cheap plastic products, T-shirts, bags, watches, tacky ornaments, and the like, with aggressive owners wanting to reel one in, asking where we were from. Knew from past experience never to engage as you will be barnaclized immediatley and rue your politeness ever after while trying to rid yourself of the limpet-like huckster!
However, having run the gauntlet, you eventually enter The Mangaldas Market, the largest indoor cloth and dress material market in Mumbai. There are hundreds of stalls where you can buy phenomenally exquisite material from the finest silk to cotton to linen. It is one of the oldest markets in the city and the shops are laid out in a complex network of narrow lanes, each of which has a number. [Not much help for visitors as it really is a maze. I'm sure we could have found our way out but it was wonderful to have Yamini along to shepherd us! I was much reminded of the Grand Bazaar in Instanbul although most of its lanes were wider.] The stalls themselves are raised about a foot or two above the lane surface and are covered with large, flat, soft mattress-like cushions, usually covered with white sheets of some sort, on which the owners either kneel or sit cross-legged or with their legs stretched out in front of them. Small wooden "desks" placed over their legs or in front of them allow them to make accounting entries and like, in large ledgers.
Again, one risks being "reeled in" if one so much as looks at a particular bolt or a colourful print. Still, everyone was friendly and not really a hard-sell unless you showed some genuine interest. I thought that I was going to get away with just "window-shopping" and taking in the lively ambience of the place but Jugos decided he wanted to take a look at some cloth that caught his eye, and the rest was history! I restrained myself, limiting my purchase to a little less than 2 metres worth of a blue linen that I was immediatley drawn to. He, on the other hand, ended up with three different patterns in cotton. Still, it was fun and certainly inexpensive at ₹1,200, ($25) for the material. [Flashing forward, I had the material tailored in Udaipur for the same amount although I tipped the young Kashmiri tailor, Ikram, ₹200 as I was so pleased with his work and the fact that he delivered the finished garment, (Total cost $54.30), to our hotel. We concluded the deal around 3:00 pm and he made delivery at 9:30 pm!]
Short clip of Mangaldas Market, starring Lynne and Peter Lighthall!
https://youtu.be/dqq8YrmdwfQ
Very pleased with our purchases and the visit to this fascinating market, we threaded our way, back through the throngs, to meet Ibrahim. Lynne was not keen to visit The Chhatrapatī Shivaji Mahārāj Vastu Saṅgrahālay (CSMVS), formerly Prince of Wales Museum of Western India so we dropped her off at the hotel on the way there. I took the opportunity to check on lady Dar and was pleased to find her feeling better, although she declined to join us on this last stop of the tour. Not far from the hotel, in the heart of South Mumbai near the Gateway of India, the CSMVS is the main museum here. Apparently, "it was founded in the early years of the 20th century by prominent citizens of Bombay, with the help of the government, to commemorate the visit of the then Prince of Wales.The museum was renamed in the 1990s or early 2000s after Shivaji, the founder of Maratha Empire. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, incorporating elements of other styles like the Mughal, Maratha and Jain, the museum is surrounded by a lovely garden of magnificent palm trees and formal flower beds."
The museum houses approximately 50,000 exhibits of ancient Indian history, [Indus Valley Civilization artefacts, and other relics from the time of the Guptas, Mauryas, Chalukyas and Rashtrakuta.], as well as objects from foreign lands, Japan and China figuring prominently. However, given our time and cultural saturation levels, we opted to see but one exhibit, a current exhibition in the the newly refurbished miniature wing offering an exquisite glimpse of courtly Mughal life through a stunning display of paintings. Both Peter and I assumed "miniature" meant just that, "of a much smaller size than normal", in the tradition of European portrait miniatures. However, Yamani explained that the term might better be understood to mean "minute", ie., "very small" detail, showing, for example, every hair on a warrior's beard.
This was a wonderful exhibit which took one through the four main schools of Mughal India, "formed through the transmission of techniques both directly and indirectly by master artists of the royal Mughal atelier", from, as I understood it, Humayun, Akbar, Jahangir (1605–27), Shah Jahan (1628–58), basically coinciding with the reigns of these emperors. Critical opinion has it that such Mughal painting developed and flourished during the reigns of Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Unfortunately, we had neither the knowledge nor the capacity nor the time to appreciate these stunning paintings but at least we now have a greater understanding of the art form itself. Of course, we were more than awed by the works we saw, if only in passing, although Yasmini certainly did her best to provide insight into the complex visual texts. Almost reeling from the sheer density of the subject matter, we made our way out of the museumand back to the van. Once at the hotel, we thanked our most knowledgeable and personable guide for the superb two days we'd spent with her and, after tipping her, said goodbye.
Back upstairs to find Cora Lee feeling much improved. I worked on messaging while she continued to read and then around 6:30 am we entertained our travelling companions with drinks and the snacks we'd bought at the SPice Market. Peter and Lynne had had a large lunch after we lads returned to hotel so Lynne wasn't interested in dinner. I wasn't really hungry myself so just Jugos and Lady Dar went downstairs to have a bite of dinner. I continued to work away on my diaries until Mme Coriandre returned form enjoying what she said was a lovely meal. I did a bit of packing, then took a shower and did some laundry at the same time. Afterwards we watched the end of Hunger Games: Mockingjay, Part 2. Guess it was Phillip Seymour Hoffman's final role. On that happy note, we both read for a bit before switching off our bedside lamps. I drifted off witht the sights and sounds and smells of the Spice Market washing over me!
Goodbye London: Well, it is almost all over. We left London late Tuesday afternoon, and arrived in Toronto around 8:00 PM. The flight was great! We were upgraded to business class, so had a very comfortable and enjoyable flight. It is nice to start with a glass of Prosecco before takeoff. Having real cutlery, dishes, and wine glasses doesn't hurt either. Oh well, Saturday will be back to reality as we board a Westjet sardine tin. Anyways, we went through customs, got our luggage, and headed into the city. Our hotel is OK, and fairly well located. It is only a few blocks from the St. Lawrence Market. Same distance the other way tajes you to the Bay and Eaton's Centre.
On Wednesday, we met Ruyun for lunch at Canoe, a restaurant on the 54th floor of the TD Centre. It had a great view of the lake. After a very long lunch, we wandered around for a bit, and then went back to the hotel to change for the awards event. The CCBC/TD Canadian Children's Literature Awards were held in the magnificent Art Deco style venue "The Carlhu" on College and Yonge. Sheila Rogers was the MC for the actual presentation, which was preceded by wine and gourmet appetizers, and followed by champagne and desserts. Jo-Anne was in her element, and spent most of her time catching up with people she knew from when she was on the CCBC board. Ruyun was there, and Cameron came as well. All in all, a very pleasant evening.
Hello Pam, Meggi and me are presently in Valparaiso, enjoying the South American livestile. On November 16. when you hiked the Pinnakles, we hiked in the desert near San Petro de Atacama. Please forward our greetings to the hikers and we hope to see you all in Decembre. Cheers, Gerd
Thank you so much for your reports, Pat. Think I'll never go to India, and it's in no way because of your reports. / Kjell
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